vibe check: filicumis agroturismo
The long and winding country road leaving from the small town of Lloseta makes you wonder whether you’ve made a wrong turn or have the wrong address— but that’s exactly what makes your unexpected arrival to FILICUMIS all the more special.
T H E V I B E S :
who: 2 friends or couple
what: Renovated finca-turned-agroturismo
when: First week of December
where: Lloseta, Mallorca
why: Relax and unwind
how long: 2-3 days
what to bring: cozy socks, deck of cards, a portable speaker, cheese and cold cuts (to pair with your wine)
what to do: take a slow walk around the property, read a book in the sun, tend the fireplace
what to pay attention to: the stillness and stars at night, the changing light and shadows that come through the window, the sounds of the animals in the morning
Once you’ve rolled your suitcase across the gravel parking lot and approach the big wooden barn doors, you suddenly realize how perfectly placed the old family home is. Just beyond the idyllic palm tree tops, you see the rocky, but lush peaks of the Tramuntana mountains coming into frame, a Mediterranean visual of the ordinary complimenting the extraordinary.
At check-in, you’re greeted by the finca caretaker who brings you through the heavy main doors, and together you emerge into the old courtyard where you immediately step into the past and that much closer to the old, slow, charm of Mallorca. While not as lavishly decorated as other luxurious properties on the island, the minimalist, traditional decor honors the history of the property and the family who lived there while flaunting modern touches. Instead of tiles, the floors are laid with small stones and the ceilings are high and showcase the original wooden beams, while the airy spaces are fitted with simple rustic furnishings. Beds are topped with fresh white linens and walls are adorned with a few old frames and all of a sudden, you feel at home.
The summer months see the most travelers but a visit during the winter exposes a more intimate, slow-paced version of this touristy island haven. During our stay, firewood was left on our doorstep everyday to keep the fireplace lit and our suite warm and cozy. When we craved a bottle of wine, we simply walked through the quiet courtyard to “la sala” or the living room, and the host gave us a bottle of local red, put it on our tab and handed us 2 glasses to go with it. To feel so secluded but still feel looked after is not an easy impression to give guests, yet the inner workings of this countryside finca find a way.
All in all, this hidden gem tucked between the Tramuntana mountains and the idyllic countryside serves a weekend long treat of peace, nature, and Mallorcan charm. Even the most restless traveler will unknowingly give in to the slower way of life at Filicumis.
